Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Eating With Our Eyes

When we think about eating, we usually think about the taste of food in our mouths, but we also eat with our eyes! A beautiful plate of food is an expression of love and consciousness -- one that says that not only did extra loving care go into the cooking, but someone cared about YOU enough to make your plate look tempting.


Making food delicious to the eye is also part of making it delicious to the palate. When food looks fresh and interesting, it sets our expectations that it will taste that way, too. And expectations help determine what we experience. For an individual trying to eat less, it can help make up for eating less quantity. And for someone with an impaired appetite, it can be the difference between being able to eat at all or not.

A friend's mother, who is a well-known retired nutritionist and cooking teacher in Japan, always said that a meal should include 5 colors. In that way you could make sure to get a good balance of healthy food components. So the beauty of delicious-looking food is not just skin-deep!

I'm not an expert at food presentation, but I care about it when I cook and serve, and I expect you do, too. I've spent some serious time thinking about it recently, trying to organize my thoughts and reinforce my commitment to good presentation, and here's what I've come up with. To me, the key principles center around freshness, variety, and composition.

Freshness

Food looks best when it appears to have just been picked or prepared. An obvious example is lettuce -- it looks great when it's crisp; it looks sad when it's limp. Similarly, veggies look more appetizing when they're closer to their fresh-picked colors. I may love the taste of green beans cooked until they're a muddy green with onion & a bit of bacon, but I will admit that they're not a treat to look at, even to these Indiana eyes. Beans steamed just until they're tender, however, are delicious to both the eye and the palate.

Fresh-picked juicy tomatoes

One of the big keys to a fresh look is moisture or juiciness. Think about two ripe tomatoes -- one glistens as if just picked with dew still on it, the other looks dry and its skin is a little loose. Which looks more delicious? If you cook meat or fish, the same principle applies -- it's most appetizing when it looks juicy. Maybe liquids hit more taste buds and throw off more aroma molecules for our noses, so our experience is that flavor is intensified? Whatever it is, I think, to our brains: Juicy = Fresh = Delicious!

Variety

When it's not all the same color, or the same texture, or even the same shape, food looks more interesting. A plate of whole wheat pasta with garlic, onion and parmesan might be good, but it's all pretty much the same color. Consider adding some parsley or colorful lightly sauteed veggies to give it some variety.

Pasta primavera topped with toasted almonds.

Another option is to use a colorful serving dish to set off bland-colored food.


Shape and texture can also add interest. Several years ago I had a wonderful dish of asparagus and snap-peas with fresh dill at The Screen Door restaurant in Portland. Rather than slicing everything into little cylinders, the chef had elected to slice the asparagus and snap-peas on the bias. I don't know if you've ever seen snap peas cut that way, but they're very intriguing looking -- you see the whole structure of the pod and peas in it. To add even more visual interest, the chef had then added some pea shoots, with their leaves and little curving tendrils. It was an amazing dish -- as delicious to look at as to eat!

Snap peas cut on an extreme bias.

Sometimes garnishes can be used to add shape and texture. My preference is to only use them when they add to both the taste and the look of a dish; it hurts me to see, for example, beds of lettuce and parsley sprigs just thrown away. At a tiny Japanese restaurant in San Francisco's Japantown, we were served smoked salmon nigiri sushi with a tiny thinly-sliced wedge of lemon topping each piece. It was very beautiful - a small fan of yellow atop the orange salmon on the white rice cake. But moreover, the flavor of lemon with the salmon was exquisite. That remains, in my mind, the example of a perfect garnish.

Composition

This is where we really enter the realm of art. The plate or the table or a serving dish is our canvas. For our design elements, there is the food itself, along with any garnishes or sauces and the serving dishes or plates.

If you're a visual artist, then you're way ahead of the game when it comes to composition. Fortunately, for the rest of us, there are various rules of thumb that can be learned and applied; techniques that are typically used in 2-dimensional art but, I think, can apply as well to food presentation.

First there are the design principles that don't tell you how to design, so much as what to shoot for in your composition. Principles like 1) creating a center of interest, 2) striving for harmony and complementary effects, 3) aiming for a unified whole, but with some interesting variation, and 4) using contrasting visuals.

Then there are some principles that can provide real guidance in achieving a pleasing composition. Here are a few that I find helpful:

The rule of thirds. In visual art, the rule of thirds says if you divide your canvas into 9 equal segments via 2 horizontal and 2 vertical lines, then placing the important elements of the picture along those lines or at their intersections will add balance and interest. So, when I plate food, I often consider the plate my canvas and try to arrange the food on it accordingly -- not at the center, not at the very edges, but about a third of the way over and/or across.

A plating according to the rule of thirds

Balance. Applying the rule of thirds can put the main subject off-center, creating an interesting asymmetry, but also leaving an empty space on the other side. For balance, include one or more offsetting design elements in that space... another small amount of food, or a garnish, or even some painted strokes of sauce.

The rule of odds. For some reason, human brains like to see an odd number of subjects in an image. So if I'm preparing a plate of food, I'll usually try to arrange it to contain 3 groupings of food, for example a main dish and 2 sides.

Simplification. You've heard the mnemonic KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid), right? Well, it applies to food presentation, too. Too much clutter on a plate detracts visually, drawing the eye away from the primary focus. So, use large plates, don't try to crowd too much on each one, and clean off smears and smudges of food before serving.


Bon Appetit!

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Apple-Peanut Slaw

Many years ago I went to dinner at a friend's. When I arrived, there was nothing cooking. Instead, my friend went out into his garden and picked a head of cabbage. He shredded it, dressed it with a little mayonnaise, and served it up as dinner. Having assumed that dinner = protein + starch + green vegetable, I was temporarily taken aback, but quickly came around. It was a delicious summer meal -- light and crunchy and fresh! I've never again seen slaw in the same light.

I fell in love with this apple-peanut slaw at a BBQ place in San Jose, CA called Armadillo Willy's. It's a little sweet and, if you liked taffy apples rolled in peanuts as a kid, you'll probably like it, too. It's a cool complement to barbecue or is nicely set off by an ear of lightly steamed corn and a bean salad.

My version is mild, but at Armadillo Willy's they make it spicy, so don't hesitate to add a little cayenne pepper and/or Tabasco to the dressing if you want some kick.


Apple-Peanut Slaw for 6
Veggies:
1-1/2 lb. green cabbage (about 1/2 head), shredded
1 carrot, shredded
1 tart organic apple, cored and shredded

Dressing:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup low-fat yogurt
1/8 cup brown sugar1
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1/2 to 1 cup dry-roasted low-salt or salt-free peanuts

Shred the cabbage and carrot and toss together in a large bowl. Blend the dressing ingredients together. Shred the apple last (so it doesn't have time to brown) and toss it well with the cabbage/carrot mixture. Pour the dressing over the vegetables and mix well. Either mix in the peanuts just before you serve or put them on the table separately for people to sprinkle on top.

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1In the future I plan to experiment with using honey instead of brown sugar. If you happen to try that first, let me know how it comes out!

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Pure Food and Wine - NYC

I heard recently from Stuart Perrin about a wonderful lunch he had at a restaurant called Pure Food and Wine, on Irving Place in New York City. He said “The concept is great: raw foods prepared with a serious gourmet touch. The food was delicious, well balanced and a great deal of consciousness went into its preparation and presentation. Everything was Vegan: no meat, no dairy, no sugar. Even my 15 year old daughter raved about the lunch. It was a special experience - something to be learned…”

For those in New York, it sounds like a wonderful place to eat! And for all of us, it serves as a good reminder to, as Stuart put it to me, “try and reach for the exceptional… possibilities of healthy gourmet food.”

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Organic or Not?


When cooking, I often specify organic for some ingredients, but not others. I know there are other considerations, but from a healthy cooking perspective, here's how I decide when to go organic.

For a long time, I didn't know what to make of organics. They were so expensive, and the organic produce always looked older and sadder at the regular supermarket than its conventionally-bred brethren.

I began to change when the issue of overexposure to Alar, a pesticide commonly used on apples, became big news in 1989. At that time, I was eating an apple every day for lunch. Suddenly, the organic apples looked better to me, and I began buying them when they were available. But I still wasn't convinced about other fruits and vegetables.

My true change of heart came when Consumer Reports began recommending that consumers always buy organic for certain produce items1. Drawing on government data, they listed a dozen or so fruits and vegetables that frequently tested positive for pesticide residue, even after washing (and sometimes peeling!). I decided that, when a mainstream non-profit organization like Consumer Reports said there was a problem, it was time for me to listen. I began to seriously change my buying and eating habits.

These days my list comes from the Environmental Working Group, a non-profit committed to exposing problems with toxic contaminants. They analyze data from the USDA Pesticide Testing program and annually publish their findings. The group just released their 2011 report EWG's Shopper's Guide to Pesticides in Produce on June 20th, listing the latest Dirty Dozen and Clean Fifteen, as follows:

EWG's 2011 Dirty DozenTM
Most frequently contaminated/ highest in pesticide residue -- eat organic!
  1. Apples
  2. Celery
  3. Strawberries
  4. Peaches
  5. Spinach
  6. Nectarines (imported)
  7. Grapes (imported)
  8. Sweet Bell Peppers
  9. Potatoes
  10. Blueberries (domestic)
  11. Lettuce
  12. Kale/collard greens

EWG's 2011 Clean FifteenTM
Lowest in pesticide residue
  1. Onions
  2. Sweet Corn**
  3. Pineapples
  4. Avocado
  5. Asparagus
  6. Sweet Peas
  7. Mangoes
  8. Eggplant
  9. Cantaloupe (domestic)
  10. Kiwi
  11. Cabbage
  12. Watermelon
  13. Sweet Potatoes
  14. Grapefruit
  15. Mushrooms
**Genetically modified (GMO) sweet corn is not labeled so in the US. If you have concerns about GMOs, then buy organic sweet corn.


Now I shop according to the list. For items in the Dirty Dozen, I try very hard to buy organic, and if it doesn't look good at the supermarket, I go to an organic grocery. For items in the Clean 15, I don't worry too much. And for everything else, I either lean towards organic or consult EWG's full list and make a judgment call.

Yes, organic produce is more expensive. But I think it's worth it to avoid eating pesticides. Even though the exposures for individual items may be low and the USDA says they're within regulatory tolerances, they must add up if you're eating healthy amounts of fruits and veggies every day. And when you're trying to eat a particularly plant-based diet, I think it's even more important to lower the volume of pesticides consumed!

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1 Consumer Reports' original article does not seem to be available on the web, but here's one from February 2006, "Starting the Year Right"

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Greek Night

Lately we've been eating Greek salads. We generally eat a low-sodium diet, so kalamatas and feta are a treat. To round out the meal, I typically marinate & grill a butterflied chicken breast, that we split, and add a small grilled potato or some brown rice. It's a simple meal that uses ingredients we usually have on hand and takes about an hour to prepare.

From a workflow perspective, first I prepare the chicken and get it marinating in the refrigerator. Then I cut the veggies for the Greek salad and get them marinating. While those sit, I prepare lettuce for the salad and halve a couple of small potatoes. I preheat the grill and start the potatoes grilling over high indirect head, turning them every 5 minutes. After 10-15 min, I add the chicken to the grill. While they cook, I set the table, toss the Greek salad and get the plates ready.


Here are the recipes:

Greek Salad for 4:
5 tablespoons olive oil
2-1/2 tablespoons white wine and/or balsamic vinegar
1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1/2 organic cucumber (about 1 cup), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
2 medium tomatoes (about 1 cup), cut into wedges
1/2 organic yellow1 bell pepper (about 1 cup), sliced into thin strips
1/4 cup red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup pitted kalmata olives
5 cups organic Romaine lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces

1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled

Use vegetable and cheese proportions to your taste. Don't be afraid to vary them or make substitutions, based on what you have in your refrigerator and pantry.

Whisk olive oil, vinegar, oregano and lemon peel in a bowl to blend. Add cucumber, tomatoes, pepper, onion and olives, and allow to marinate for 1/2 hour. Add lettuce and toss to mix and coat. Serve and sprinkle with the feta.
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1The pepper in the salad doesn't have to be yellow, but the salad will look more colorful and appetizing if it's yellow or orange.


Greek Chicken for 4
1/2 cup low fat plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoons dried oregano
2 boneless skinless chicken breasts, butterflied

In a shallow baking dish, mix the yogurt, lemon zest, lemon juice, and oregano. Place the chicken in the dish, and turn to coat. Cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for 1/2 hr to 3 hrs. Grill the chicken over high indirect heat until it's done (5 min per side for our grill). Slice into strips and serve.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.

This catchphrase from Unhappy Meals, a 2007 essay by Michael Pollan of the New York Times, really speaks to me. Focus on eating a diverse balanced whole-food-oriented diet, rather than human-designed food products. Moderate the amount eaten. Finally, eat the way our ancestors did – a plant-based diet, rich in leaves, treating meat à la Thomas Jefferson -- “as a condiment to the vegetables which constitute my principal diet.”

In his article, Pollan describes how a 1977 US Senate committee drafted guidelines calling for a reduction of meat and dairy product consumption to reduce coronary heart disease that resulted in a political firestorm propelling the US down the path to a new dietary language -- one that shunned plain talk about whole foods, in favor of terms like cholesterol and saturated fats that were guaranteed not to offend powerful food lobbies. He argues that our growing view of food as a “delivery system for nutrients” is responsible for the rise of processed designer foods and resultant health problems like obesity and diabetes.

Pollan goes on to talk about how the things we think we know about the relationship between diet and health are often based on bad science. Food science studies ignore complex interactions -- they don't study nutrients in the context of food or food in the context of diet or diet in the context of lifestyle. And some of the most rigorous, extensive, long-term studies are based on people self-reporting every 3 months what they remember eating -- who can remember what they ate 3 months ago? who knows how it was prepared? and who will admit to eating more than a maintenance-level of calories or greater than a 4 oz. "medium serving size" of meat at a meal?

He discusses principles of healthy eating and ends with some rules of thumb, collected in the course of preparing the article:
  1. Don't eat anything your great-great-grandmother wouldn't recognize as food.
  2. Avoid food products that come bearing health claims - they're apt to be heavily processed.
  3. Especially avoid food products containing ingredients that are a) unfamiliar, b) unpronounceable, c) more than five in number -- or that contain high-fructose corn syrup.
  4. Get out of the supermarket whenever possible; go to the farmer's market.
  5. Eat better quality food and eat less.
  6. Eat mostly plants, especially leaves.
  7. Eat according to the rules of a traditional food culture. If it weren't a healthy diet, the culture wouldn't still be around.
  8. Cook. And if you can, plant a garden.
  9. Eat like an omnivore. Add new species to your diet.

I found Pollan's article a compelling read, and it's made me look at my diet differently. Having successfully lost 30 lbs in the late 1990s following the Zone Diet, I came to view food as fats, proteins, and high- or low-glycemic carbs. I'm going to try getting away from that and viewing food as, well, food again. Give the article a try and see what you think!